明星资讯腾讯娱乐2017年12月11日 11:41:18
The little girl was abused so badly she had a black eye, dried blood in the corner of her mouth and deep purple bruises all over her body.一名小女孩遭受到严重虐待,她的眼睛红肿,嘴角有血迹,全身布满淤青。But it#39;s what she said when asked her name that#39;s truly startling. ;Idiot.;但直到她说出自己的名字时,才真的让人震惊。她说自己叫“白痴”。The girl is only 4. She lived with her mother, Jennifer Denen, and Denen#39;s live-in boyfriend, Clarence Reed, in a home in Hot Springs, Arkansas.这个女孩才4岁,她和妈妈珍妮佛·迪恩及迪恩47岁的同居男友克伦劳斯·里德同住在阿肯色州温泉城。Police say she was called an ;idiot; so often and for so long that it was the word that sprung to her young mind when a social worker asked her name.警方表示,长期以来家人常常唤她“白痴”,以至于当一名社会工作者询问她的名字时,她的脑海中就条件反射般的出现了这个词。Hot Springs police arrested the mother and her boyfriend last week after social workers reported the abuse.在社工通报了这起儿童虐待案后,温泉城警方于上周抓捕了她的母亲和男友。They said the 30-year-old mother knew her boyfriend was doling out to the child on a regular basis but never sought medical treatment.警方表示,这位30岁的妈妈知道自己的男友经常这样打孩子,但从未寻求过医疗救助。The girl#39;s injuries included bruises on her buttocks, her lower back, her leg, police said. She had a blackened eye, a swollen cheek and a bruise on her forehead.警方表示,女童的臀部、下背部和腿部都有瘀青,眼睛红肿,下巴肿胀,前额有伤痕。She also had scars on her back that had started to heal, indicating the abuse had been going on for a while. In addition to it all, the girl was also severely malnourished.她的背部也有已经开始愈合的疤痕,这意味着这里的伤已经有一段时间了。此外,这名女孩看起来还营养不良。Reed admitted to zip tying the little girl to her bed after he found her climbing on the kitchen cabinet, acording to a police report. He also acknowledged to calling her ;Idiot; but said it was ;in jest;.据警方的报告显示,里德承认自己是发现小女孩爬到橱柜里,才把她捆绑在床上的。他还承认自己管小女孩叫“白痴”,但那只是“开个玩笑”。The couple was charged with domestic battery, permitting child abuse, and endangering the welfare of a minor. Both remain in the Garland County Jail with a next court date of September 27.这对情侣以涉嫌家庭暴力、允许未成年人受虐和危害未成年人福利等罪名被指控。二人目前都被关押在加兰县监狱,等待于9月27日的下一次开庭。The child is now in state custody where she is healing from her physical injuries. The psychological injuries will likely take years to heal.小女孩现在正在州立儿童福利机构接受照顾,以愈合身上的伤痕。而她心理的伤痕则需要许多年才能痊愈。 /201608/462981

“Polygraphy is not a game,” Eran Gazit, cofounder of the GazitPolygraph Institute warned when I called about taking a polygraph for thisstory. “It’s impossible to test the system unless you have skin in the game.You need to have something to lose, like your job or marriage, or freedom.”在我致电谈到为这篇报道参加测谎仪测试时,加齐特测谎仪研究所(Gazit Polygraph Institute)联合创始人厄兰·加齐特(EranGazit)警告道,“测谎仪测试可不是闹着玩的,除非你在测试中有利益在,否则就不可能测试这个系统。你需要有能失去的东西,比如工作、婚姻或者自由。”Nevertheless, I’m here tointerview his father, Mordi Gazit, who worked for the Israeli Police Polygraph for 10 years before he cofounded the institute in Tel Aviv.虽然如此,我还是来这里采访他的父亲——穆尔迪·加齐特(Mordi Gazit)。在与他在特拉维夫联合创建这个研究所前,他的父亲为以色列警方测谎部门工作了长达10 年之久。I’m also here to tryto successfully lie my way through a polygraph.我来这里还想试试能否撒谎骗过测谎仪。Which is how I found myself sitting in acomfortable chair with two straps wrapped around my chest, metal devicescovering my fingertips and a blood pressure cuff hanging around my arm. Thewires lead into a box that resembles a cable modem, which in turn iscontinuously sending data to Mordi’s laptop.这样,我就坐在了一张舒适的椅子中,胸部绕扎着两根皮带,指尖上固定着金属装置,胳膊上绑着血压带。各种导线都进入一个类似于机顶盒的盒子中,它将把数据源源不断地发送到穆尔迪的笔记本电脑中。Polygraph evidence is not admissible inmany courts, but the authorities have found other uses for them Commonly knownas lie detector tests, polygraphs work by measuring physiological changes inthe body, in this case respiration rate, pulse, blood pressure and galvanicskin response, which measures the electrical properties in the skin. Othermethods can involve measuring pupillary changes and brain activity using anfMRI.这通常称为测谎仪测试。测谎仪是要靠测量人在回答各种问题时所产生的自然人体生理变化而断定测试人是在讲真话还是在说谎,我体验的情况包括呼吸率、脉搏、血压和皮肤电反应(测量皮肤的电学特性)等。其他方法还可能涉及测量瞳孔的变化和利用功能磁共振成像(fMRI)测量大脑活动。Polygraph evidence is generally notadmissible in criminal court in the US and most of Europe. But the authoritieshave found other uses for them. In the UK, probation officers use polygraphs tomonitor serious sex offenders, which has resulted in dozens of people returningto jail. In the US, polygraphs are used to screen candidates for the CIA andother government jobs.美国和大多数欧洲刑事法庭通常并不接受测谎仪据。但有关机构发现它另有用途。在英国,缓刑犯监督官利用测谎仪检测严重性犯罪者,通过这种测试让几十名罪犯返回监狱。在美国,测谎仪被中央情报局和其他政府机构用于筛选求职者。Walt Goodson, the president of the AmericanPolygraph Association spent 25 years in the Texas State Police, and emphasisestheir usefulness in conducting police investigations. “They are extremelyhelpful in focusing exams. It’s a quick and easy way to bring in a suspect anddecide if we need to look more into that person or if we need to look forsomeone else in our investigation.”美国测谎协会会长沃尔特·古德森(Walt Goodson)曾在德克萨斯州警察部门工作长达25 年,他强调测谎仪在警方调查中的作用:“在集中测试中它们极为有用。这是一种发现嫌疑人的简单而快捷的方法,同时也有助于我们决定是否需要深入调查,或者是否需要寻找其他嫌疑人。”And helping people cheat on polygraphs hasshown to have serious legal consequences. A former Oklahoma City police officerwas recently sentenced to two years in prison for coaching undercover Federalagents who said they wanted to cover up their crimes.帮助他人设法骗过测谎仪将会带来严重的法律后果。俄克拉荷马市一名前任警官最近被判两年监禁,原因就是他曾训练卧底联邦特工掩盖罪行。Trying to cheat试图欺骗Yet could an untrained person like me stillfool the examiner?但像我这样未经训练的人真的能骗过测谎仪吗?From the moment I meet Mordi, I feel likeI’m in the presence of a government agent. The 69-year-old has experiencewritten all over his face. He’s professional, speaks confidently and looks medead in the eye as he asks for my press credentials. I think to myself thateven if I can trick the machine, this guy would know if I was lying. I alyfeel nervous, as if I’m going to get caught for something I haven’t done. I’d laterdiscover that this is part of the problem with the tests.从见到穆尔迪开始,我就感到自己像是在面对联邦特工。丰富的经验全都写在69 岁的穆尔迪脸上。他非常专业,在要求我出示记者件时,他直视着我的眼睛,语气极为自信。我暗自思忖,即使我撒谎能骗过测谎仪,也会被这家伙看出来啊。我已经感到自己的紧张,就像是自己因为什么没做过的事情要被抓住一样。后来我认识到,这也是测谎测试所存在的部分问题。 /201605/440863

  Can#39;t be bothered to paint your toenails or simply don#39;t have the time?懒得画或根本没有时间涂脚趾甲?Well good news, because now you don#39;t have to thanks to skin-colored pre-painted toenail stockings.好消息!多亏了预先涂色的肉色分趾袜,现在你不必为此烦恼了。The stockings have taken social media by storm of late, with thousands sharing the strange creations on Facebook and Instagram.近日,这种长筒袜席卷社交媒体,成千上万的人在脸书和Instagram上分享这种奇特的发明。Invented in Japan by Belle Maison, the stockings come with a variety of pre-painted colors and nail art patterns.由日本倍美丛公司发明的这种长筒袜有各种预涂颜色和美甲图案。You can even change them throughout the day to select the colors that best suit your mood! From stripes and polka dots to tiny hearts and shells, the only limit is your imagination.你甚至可以在一天中不断更换,以选择适合心情的颜色。从条纹、波点到小爱心和贝壳的图案,只有你想不到的,没有他们给不出的图案。So next time you#39;re thinking of decorating your toenails, leave the polish on the shelf and pick up a pair of pre-painted tights instead.所以下次你打算装饰你的脚趾甲的时候,还是把指甲油放在架子上,拿起这种分趾袜吧!They#39;re cheaper than a pedicure and they last longer too. They#39;ll also make you the talking point of parties and social events.它们比足部美甲更便宜,并且保持的更久。它们也会让你成为聚会和社交活动的焦点. /201605/441449



  I have no idea what you are doing, but it#39;s not turning me on, Gwen ...我不知道你在做什么,但它不能让我兴奋,格温…… /201607/452819


  In our quest for the perfect pearly whites, our bathroom cabinets are stocked with whitening toothpastes, floss and mouthwashes.为了追求一口珍珠般洁白无瑕的牙齿,我们的浴室柜里囤满了美白牙膏、牙线和漱口水。But when it comes to oral health, a top dentist has revealed our best intentions could in fact be potentially damaging to our teeth.但是,就口腔健康而言,一位顶级牙医告诉我们,我们良好的意愿事实上可能对牙齿有潜在危害。Dr Tariq Idrees, dentist and owner of Carisbrook Dental Clinic in Manchester, said millions of people are unwittingly destroying their teeth with everyday habits, they think would be beneficial.曼彻斯特卡里斯布鲁克牙科诊所的老板、牙医塔里克#8226;伊德莱斯士说,数百万的人都以为自己每天的习惯是有益的,却在不知不觉中损害着牙齿。He said electric toothbrushes can prove #39;useless#39; if they are not used correctly, and you can harm your teeth by rinsing too soon with water after brushing, brushing too much, at the wrong times or in the wrong way.他说如果不正确使用,电动牙刷就“没什么用”,刷牙之后马上用清水漱口、刷牙太用力、在错误的时间或以错误的方式刷牙,都有可能损伤牙齿。Here, he reveals the ten things which you make think are good for your teeth but are not.这里他列出你可能觉得有益于牙齿的十件事,但实则不然。1. Electric toothbrushes电动牙刷Electric toothbrushes - yes, this may sound strange but if you are not using the right technique, they can be useless.电动牙刷——是的,也许听起来奇怪,但如果你方法不对,它们就没什么作用。With most electric toothbrushes you only need to touch the tooth with the bristles.使用大多数的电动牙刷,你只需要把刷毛碰到牙齿就行了。If you push too hard the bristles bend and are not effective.如果你按压太用力,刷毛弯曲,就没效果了。Take your electric toothbrush with you and ask your dental hygienist for a demonstration.带上你的电动牙刷,让牙医给你做下示范。2. Whitening toothpastes美白牙膏Abrasive tooth pastes such as bicarbonate or whitening pastes.那些含有碳酸氢盐或美白成分等有研磨作用的牙膏。They are abrasive and can wear your enamel away and in the long-term lead to sensitivity and darkening of your teeth as the enamel wears and the inner amber-coloured dentine becomes visible.它们都有研磨作用,会磨损牙釉质,长此以往会导致牙齿敏感和发黑,因为牙釉质磨损会暴露出里面黄褐色的牙质。3. Rinsing too soon with water after brushing刷牙过后马上用清水漱口We all use water to clean our teeth but swishing water in your mouth too soon after brushing washes away much of the fluoride with it and minimises your toothpaste#39;s effectiveness.我们都用水清洁牙齿,但一刷完牙就漱口,就会漱掉很多氟化物,极大降低牙膏的功效。If you feel the need to rinse out your mouth after brushing, use a (non alcohol-based) mouthwash.如果你刷牙之后需要漱口,就用(不含酒精的)漱口水吧。You shouldn#39;t eat or drink for at least half an hour after brushing your teeth.刷完牙之后至少半小时之内不能进食或喝水。4. Brushing your teeth too hard刷牙太用力Poor tooth brushing techniques can harm your teeth - if you really scrub your teeth too hard, you will wear the sides of your teeth down, leaving V-shaped defects near the gum margins.不恰当的刷牙方法会损害牙齿,如果你真的太用力刷牙,就会磨损牙齿边缘,在牙龈缘附近形成V字形缺口。Also, don#39;t always start brushing the same place.而且,不要总是从同一个地方开始刷牙。If you always start on the top right side, that section is going to get the most attention.如果你总是从右上方开始刷,那个地方就得到最多关注。Most people get bored as they are brushing, so the areas covered last get the least attention.大多数人刷着刷着就厌烦了,所以最后刷到的区域得到的关注最少。Mix-up your brushing technique so all areas are covered adequately.多使用一些刷牙技巧,这样所有的区域都能得到充分清洁。You should brush in a circular motion - rather than from side to side.你应该以划圆圈的方式刷牙——而不是从一端刷到另一端。5. Mouthwash漱口水Alcohol-based mouth washes can be harsh and long-term use has been linked to development of oral cancers.含酒精的漱口水刺激性较强,长期使用有患口腔癌的风险。Studies have found that excessive use - three times a day - presents a health risk.研究发现过度使用漱口水——一天三次,也对健康不利。6. Flossing牙线Again the wrong technique such as a sawing motion can cause damage and recession of the gums.再强调一次,错误的方法,比如拉锯式的动作,会导致牙齿损伤和牙龈萎缩。You should slide the floss gently up-and-down between your teeth.你应该轻轻地在牙缝处上下滑动牙线。7. Brushing at the wrong times and too much刷牙时间不当且刷牙太频繁This can cause damage as well. Do not brush straight after eating citrus/acidic fruits or after wine.这也能引起损伤。不要一吃完柑橘类(酸性)水果或喝酒后就刷牙。The tooth enamel is softened by the acid and brushing straight after will wear the teeth down.酸性物质会软化牙釉质,立即刷牙会磨损牙齿。Instead wait for 30 minutes for the acids to neutralise before brushing or even use a fluoride mouthwash to help neutralise the acid.你应该等30分钟让酸性物质中和后再刷牙,或使用含氟的漱口水来中和酸性物质。8. Holistic toothpastes全效牙膏They are becoming more and more popular.它们现在越来越受欢迎了。However, I see patients using these suddenly developing tooth decay or gum issues.然而,我看到使用这种牙膏的病人在突然之间就出现了牙齿退化或牙龈问题。Unfortunately they tend to have little science behind them. If a toothpaste is fluoride free I would not recommend it.不幸的是,它们往往没有科学依据作撑。如果牙膏不含氟我是不会推荐的。Fluoride has been proven without doubt to prevent tooth decay.氟已被确凿实可以预防蛀牙。A holistic toothpaste without fluoride may help with gum disease prevention but not tooth decay.不含氟的全效牙膏也许有助于预防牙龈疾病,但不能预防蛀牙。9. Hard toothbrushes牙刷太硬Hard toothbrushes can cause excessive wear and recession of the gums.刷毛硬的牙刷会引起牙龈过度磨损和萎缩。10. Brushing your teeth for 45 seconds只刷45秒Surveys show that as many 43 percent of patients brush their teeth for just 45 seconds.调查显示,多达43%的牙病患者刷牙只刷45秒。This is not long enough to give them a proper clean.这个时间太短,不足以做充分的清洁。You should clean your teeth for at least two minutes.你的刷牙时间应该至少是两分钟。 /201606/449055

  Robots that slice, grill, assemble and bag 400 burgers in one hour are set to invade California.一款可以在1个小时内自动切、烤、组合、包装400个汉堡的机器人将要引入到加利福尼亚州。Momentum Machines unveiled its autonomous grill master in 2012 and recently announced it will be opening a robot-powered burger bar in San Francisco#39;s South of Market.美国动力机器公司早在2012年就推出了能做汉堡的机器,近日又宣布其机器汉堡店即将登陆旧金山南部市场。Although this machine can do the work of three humans, the startup is still hiring people to perform other tasks such as payroll and taking out the garbage.尽管这台机器人可以做三个人的工作任务,但在初期仍然需要员工来帮忙处理客户订单或者清理垃圾等。With the minimum wage increasing in parts of the US, the idea of hiring a staff of robots may be a way to combat costs.美国部分地区的最低工资标准已开始上涨,那么用机器人替代员工将能降低成本。Former McDonald#39;s USA CEO Ed Rensi has said it would be cheaper to hire robots to replace the company#39;s staff than to pay them the minimum wage.美国麦当劳前任CEO爱德华·伦西表示,雇佣机器人来代替需要付15美元的员工,这要划算的多。It#39;s cheaper to buy a ,000 robotic arm than it is to hire an employee who#39;s inefficient making an hour bagging french fries,#39; Rensi told Fox Business. He added that the demand to raise wages is #39;going to cause a job loss across this country.#39;伦西在接受《福布斯商业》的采访时说道:“购买价值35000美元的机器人比付给效率低的员工每小时15美元去炸薯条要实惠得多。”此外他补充说道,提高工资的要求“将会导致美国更多人失业。”And Momentum Machines just might be the spark that ignites the rise of the machines in the US fast food industry. News of the robot-run restaurant sp after a job posting on Craigslist surfaced last month, which gives the public a glimpse into how the startup#39;s futuristic eatery might operate once it is open to the public.动力机器公司将引领机器人在美国快餐行业大规模使用的新潮流。自从上个月Craigslist网站上发布招聘信息之后,机器人汉堡店这一新闻就传开。一旦其正式开业,公众就有机会一睹这家公司的未来主义餐厅如何运作的了。 /201607/454720。


  Bill Cunningham, the street-style photographer whose photo essays for The New York Times memorialized trends ranging from fanny packs to Birkin bags, gingham shirts and fluorescent biker shorts, died Saturday in New York. He was 87.街拍摄影师比尔·坎宁安(Bill Cunningham)为《纽约时报》拍摄的摄影小品记录了各种时尚——从腰包到柏金包(Birkin),从格子衬衣到荧光自行车短裤。他于周六在纽约去世,享年87岁。He had been hospitalized recently after having a stroke. His death was confirmed by The New York Times.前不久,他因中风入院。他去世的消息得到《纽约时报》实。In his nearly 40 years working for The Times, Cunningham operated both as a dedicated chronicler of fashion and as an unlikely cultural anthropologist, one who used the changing dress habits of the people he photographed to chart the broader shift away from formality and toward something more diffuse and individualistic.在为《纽约时报》工作的近40年时间里,坎宁安既是时尚的专注记录者,也是一名令人难以置信的文化人类学家。他用镜头里人们不断变化的着装习惯,来反映更为广泛的文化变迁——从较为正式到更分散、更个性化。At the Pierre hotel on the East Side of Manhattan, he pointed his camera at tweed-wearing blue-blood New Yorkers with names like Rockefeller and Vanderbilt. Downtown, by the piers, he clicked away at crop-top wearing Voguers. Up in Harlem, he jumped off his bicycle — he rode more than 30 over the years, replacing one after another as they were wrecked or stolen — for B-boys in low-slung jeans.在曼哈顿东区的皮埃尔酒店(Pierre),他把照相机对准洛克菲勒(Rockefeller)和范德比尔特(Vanderbilt)这些身穿花呢装的纽约望族。在市中心的码头边,他拍摄身穿露脐上衣的时尚人士。在哈莱姆区,他从自行车上跳下,拍摄身穿低腰牛仔裤的霹雳舞小子(B-boy)。要是自行车坏了或被偷了,他就再买一辆,前前后后一共买了30多辆。In the process, he turned into something of a celebrity himself.在这个过程中,他自己也成了名人。In 2008, Cunningham went to Paris, where the French government bestowed him with the Legion d’Honneur. Back in New York, he was celebrated at Bergdorf Goodman, where a life-size mannequin of him, as slight and bony-thin as ever, was installed in the window.2008年,坎宁安前往巴黎接受法国政府授予他的荣誉军团勋章(Legion d’Honneur)。他回到纽约后,波道夫·古德曼百货公司(Bergdorf Goodman)为了表示祝贺,在橱窗里摆放他的真人大小模型,和他本人一样消瘦。In 2009, he was named a Living Landmark by the New York Landmarks Conservancy and profiled in The New Yorker, which described his columns On the Street and Evening Hours as the city’s unofficial yearbook, “an exuberant, sometimes retroactively embarrassing chronicle of the way we looked.”2009年,他被纽约地标建筑保护委员会(New York Landmarks Conservancy)列为活地标(Living Landmark),《纽约客》(The New Yorker)在关于他的特写文章中称,他的“街头”(On the Street)和“晚间时光”(Evening Hours)专栏是纽约市的非官方年鉴,“他对我们的着装方式进行了丰富的记录,有些回头再看也会令人感到尴尬。”In 2010, a documentary film, “Bill Cunningham New York,” premiered at the Museum of Modern Art to glowing reviews.2010年,纪录片《我们都为比尔着盛装》(Bill Cunningham New York)在现代艺术物馆(Museum of Modern Art)首映,获得各界盛赞。Yet Cunningham told nearly anyone who asked about it that the attendant publicity was a total hassle, a reason for strangers to approach and bother him.不过,坎宁安对几乎每一个向他询问此事的人说,随之而来的宣传对他来说完全是一种苦恼——陌生人能够得以接近他,烦扰他。He wanted to find subjects, not be the subject. He wanted to observe, rather than be observed. Asceticism was a hallmark of his brand.他想寻找拍摄对象,而不是成为拍摄对象。他想去观察别人,而不是被观察。苦行主义是他的品质之一。Cunningham’s position as a perennial outsider among a set of consummate insiders was part of what made him uniquely well suited to The Times.在追求完美的业内人士中间,坎宁安始终甘当局外人,这是他特别适合时报的原因之一。“His company was sought after by the fashion world’s rich and powerful, yet he remained one of the kindest, most gentle and humble people I have ever met,” said Arthur Ochs Sulzberger Jr., the Times’s publisher and chairman. “We have lost a legend, and I am personally heartbroken to have lost a friend.”“时尚界的权势人物都欢迎他的陪伴,但他仍是我见过的最友好、最温和、最谦逊的人之一,”时报出版人兼董事长小阿瑟·奥克斯·苏兹伯格(Arthur Ochs Sulzberger Jr.)说,“我们失去了一位传奇,从我个人来说,我失去了一位朋友,这让我感到伤心。”Dean Baquet, the Times’s executive editor, said: “He was a hugely ethical journalist. And he was incredibly open-minded about fashion. To see a Bill Cunningham street sp was to see all of New York. Young people. Brown people. People who spent fortunes on fashion, and people who just had a strut and knew how to put an outfit together out of what they had and what they found.”时报的执行主编迪恩·巴奎(Dean Baquet)说:“他是一位很有职业道德的记者。他对时尚保持非常开放的态度。看一看比尔·坎宁安的横贯两版街拍,就相当于看到了整个纽约。年轻人。棕色皮肤的人。愿意在装上破费的人,以及那些非常自信、知道如何从现有的和能找到的装中搭配出一身行头的人。”Michele McNally, The Times’s director of photography, said: “Bill was an extraordinary man, his commitment and passion unparalleled, his gentleness and humility inspirational. Even though his talents were very well known, he preferred to be anonymous, something unachievable for such a superstar. I will miss him every day.”时报的摄影总监米歇尔·麦克纳利(Michele McNally)说:“比尔是一个了不起的人。他的投入和热情无与伦比,他的亲切和谦逊令人鼓舞。虽然他的才华几乎人尽皆知,但他还是愿意默默无闻——对这样一位超级明星来说,这非常难得。我每天都会想念他。”Cunningham particularly loved eccentrics, whom he collected like precious seashells.坎宁安特别喜欢古怪的人,他像收集珍贵的贝壳那样收集这些人的踪影。Cunningham’s most frequent observation spot during the day was Fifth Avenue and 57th Street, where he became as much a part of the scenery as Tiffany amp; Co. His camera clicked constantly as he spotted fashions and moved with gazellelike speed to record his subjects at just the right angle.坎宁安白天最常去的观察点是第五大道和第57街,他和蒂芙尼珠宝公司(Tiffany amp; Co.)一样成为街景的一部分。一旦发现时尚,他就以羚羊般的速度移动,找到最佳角度,不停地按下快门,记录他的拍摄对象。“Everyone knew to leave him alone when he saw a sneaker he liked or a dress that caught his eye,” said Harold Koda, the former curator in charge at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.“大伙儿都知道,当他看上一双运动鞋或一条裙子时,不要去打扰他,”大都会艺术物馆(Metropolitan Museum of Art)装学院(Costume Institute)的前策展主管哈罗德·科达(Harold Koda)说。“Because if you were in the way of someone he wanted to photograph,” said Kim Hastreiter, the editor of Paper Magazine and a friend of Cunningham’s, “he would climb over you to get it. He was like a war photographer that way, except that what he was photographing were clothes.”“因为如果你挡住了他想拍的人,”《Paper Magazine》的主编、坎宁安的好友基姆·哈斯特莱斯塔(Kim Hastreiter)说。“他会从你身上翻过去拍照。那种感觉像战地记者,只不过他拍的是装。”“When I’m photographing,” Cunningham once said, “I look for the personal style with which something is worn — sometimes even how an umbrella is carried or how a coat is held closed. At parties, it’s important to be almost invisible, to catch people when they’re oblivious to the camera — to get the intensity of their speech, the gestures of their hands. I’m interested in capturing a moment with animation and spirit.”“拍照时,”坎宁安曾说过,“我寻找的是个性化的着装风格,有时甚至是拿雨伞或外套系紧的方式。在派对上,几乎保持隐身很重要,在人们没有注意到照相机的时候去拍照——捕捉到讲话的热情和他们的手势。我喜欢拍摄有活力的时刻。”William John Cunningham Jr. was born March 13, 1929, in Boston, the second of four children in an Irish-Catholic family.小威廉·约翰·坎宁安(William John Cunningham Jr.)于1929年3月13日出生于波士顿一个爱尔兰天主教家庭,是家中四个孩子中的老二。In middle school, he used bits of material he got from a dime store to put together hats, one of which he gave to his mother to wear to the New York World’s Fair in 1939. “She never wore it,” Cunningham once said. “My family all thought I was a little nuts.”中学时,他用从廉价商店搞到的小块布料拼成了几顶帽子,其中一顶送给了妈妈,让她在参观1939年的纽约世会时戴上。“她从没戴过,”坎宁安曾说过,“我的家人都觉得我有点疯。”As a teenager, he got a part-time job at the department store Bonwit Teller, then received a scholarship to Harvard only to drop out after two months. “They thought I was an illiterate,” Cunningham said. “I was hopeless — but I was a visual person.”十几岁时,他在邦威特·特勒百货公司(Bonwit Teller)得到一份兼职工作,后来获得了哈佛大学(Harvard)的奖学金,但是两个月后就退学了。“他们觉得我无知,”坎宁安说,“说我不可救药——但我是一个视觉型的人。”With nothing to do in Boston and his parents pressuring him to find some direction, he moved to New York, where he took a room with an uncle, Tom Harrington, who had an ownership stake in an advertising agency.他在波士顿无事可做,父母又催他寻找工作方向,所以他搬去纽约,和舅舅汤姆·哈林顿(Tom Harrington)合住。哈林顿在一个广告公司持有所有权股份。“My family thought they could indoctrinate me in that business, that living with my uncle, it would brush off,” Cunningham said. “But it didn’t work. I had always been interested in fashion.”“我的家人以为他们可以诱导我入那一行,以为我和舅舅住在一起,就会打消原来的想法,”坎宁安说,“但那没起作用。我一直对时装感兴趣。”So when Harrington issued his nephew an ultimatum — “quit making hats or get out of my apartment” — Cunningham chose the latter, relocating to East 52nd Street to a ground-floor apartment that doubled as a showroom for his fox-edged fedoras and zebra-stenciled toques.所以当哈林顿给外甥下了最后通牒——“别再做帽子了,不然你就从我家搬出去”——坎宁安选择了后者,他搬到东52街的一个位于底层的公寓,那里兼做展厅,展示他的狐皮边浅顶软呢男帽和斑马印花无边女帽。To make extra money, Cunningham began freelancing a column in Women’s Wear Daily, then quit sometime in the early 1960s after getting into a feud with its publisher, John Fairchild, over who was a better designer: André Courrèges or Yves Saint Laurent.为了多挣些钱,坎宁安开始在《女装日报》(Women’s Wear Daily)上以自由撰稿人的身份开设专栏。在20世纪60年代早期的某个时候,由于与出版人约翰·费尔柴尔德(John Fairchild)就安德烈·库雷热(André Courrèges)和伊夫·圣罗兰(Yves Saint Laurent)谁是更好的设计师发生争执,他停止与该报合作。Around 1967, he got his first camera and used it to take pictures of the “Summer of Love,” when he realized the action was out on the street. He started taking assignments for The Daily News and The Chicago Tribune, and he became a regular contributor to The Times in the late 1970s, though over the next two decades, he declined repeated efforts by his editors to take a staff position.1967年前后,他有了第一部相机,用它拍摄“爱之夏”运动(Summer of Love),就是这个时期,他意识到,真正的运动在街头。他开始接受《每日新闻》(The Daily News)和《芝加哥论坛报》(The Chicago Tribune)的拍摄任务。20世纪70年代末,他开始经常给时报投稿,不过在接下来的20年里,他拒绝成为时报的全职员工,尽管编辑们多次邀请。“Once people own you,” he would say, “they can tell you what to do. So don’t let ‘em.”“一旦别人成了你的老板,”他会说,“你就得听他们的。所以不要让他们成为你的老板。”That changed in 1994 after Cunningham was hit by a truck while riding his bicycle. Explaining why he had finally accepted the Times’s offer, he said, “It was a matter of health insurance.”这在1994年发生改变——那一年,坎宁安在骑车时被一辆卡车撞倒。他在解释为什么最终接受时报的邀请时说,“是为了获得医疗保险。”Cunningham also resisted the trends of celebrity dressing. He had seen actresses in their fishtail dresses preening and posing before the phalanxes of photographers at ceremonies like the Golden Globes and the Oscars. They were poised. They looked pretty. Yet he simply could not muster enthusiasm for them.坎宁安还抗拒名人着装的潮流。在金球奖(Golden Globes)和奥斯卡奖(Oscars)等颁奖典礼上,他看到女演员们身穿鱼尾礼在一群摄影师面前整理妆容,摆姿势。她们一动不动,看起来很美。不过,他就是对她们提不起热情。It wasn’t simply that he was nostalgic for another time, back when famous women like Lauren Bacall and Brooke Astor actually dressed themselves. That era may have held a certain appeal for him, but even when he was in his 70s and 80s, he still had plenty of subjects he loved to shoot.这不只是因为他怀念另一个时代——那时,劳伦·巴考尔(Lauren Bacall)和布鲁克·阿斯特(Brooke Astor)等明星真的是自己挑选衣。那个年代对他来说也许具有某种吸引力,不过即便在他七八十岁时,他依然有很多喜欢拍摄的对象。One was Louise Doktor, an administrative assistant at a New York holding company who had a coat with four sleeves and a handbag made from a soccer ball. Another was Andre J., a bearded man with a taste for off-the-shoulder ‘70s-inspired dresses.其中一位便是纽约某控股公司的行政助理路易斯·多克托尔(Louise Doktor),她有一件带四个袖子的外套,以及一个用足球做成的手袋。还有留山羊胡的安德烈·J(Andre J.),他偏爱70年代风格的露肩裙装。“He had people who recurred in his columns,” Koda said. “Most of them were not famous. They were working people he was interested in. His thing was personal style.”“在他的专栏中,有些人反复出现,”科达说。“他们大都不是名人,而是他感兴趣的职场人士。他最爱的就是个人风格。”Cunningham put it this way in an essay he wrote for The Times in 2002: “Fashion is as vital and as interesting today as ever. I know what people with a more formal attitude mean when they say they’re horrified by what they see on the street. But fashion is doing its job. It’s mirroring exactly our times.”坎宁安在2002年为《纽约时报》撰写的文章中阐明了自己的观点:“当今的时装一如既往地至关重要而且趣味盎然。有些一本正经的人说,在街头看到的东西把他们吓坏了,我知道他们是什么意思。但这就是时装在发挥自己的功能。它准确地反映出我们的时代。” /201606/451473


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